At the risk of disappointing many, and contrary to what one might think, the “Swiss Made” label does not mean that the parts of the mechanical watch in question are Swiss made. It must be said that the current blows that can boast about it are rare and cost a lot. How to get your bearings and, especially, how to know how much the watch purchased is really worth?
It is no secret that Swiss watches have an excellent reputation worldwide, built over the centuries based on precise knowledge and high standards. Symbol of prestige, innovation and impeccable quality, a touching label ” Swiss made “It requires specific criteria to be able to show itself as such. There is a law enacted by the Swiss government to protect this name and ensure its integrity to prevent misuse in the watch industry.
The ordinance of the Swiss Federal Council of August 28, 1992 establishes precise specifications in which all the requirements of the famous label are listed. In 2007, the Watchmaking Federation wanted to strengthen the rules inherent in “Swiss Made”.
The criteria of a Swiss watch:
- Join a Swiss movement;
- Join a movement nested in Switzerland;
- Final inspection carried out in Switzerland by the manufacturer;
- A minimum of 60% of the cost of the watch is generated in Switzerland (ie “60% of the Swiss value”).
The criteria of the Swiss movement:
- They have been assembled in Switzerland;
- They have been verified by the manufacturer in Switzerland;
- A minimum of 60% of the cost price is generated in Switzerland (ie “60% of the Swiss value”);
- Be Swiss made for at least 50% at least of the value of all constituent parts (without the cost of assembly).
Small clarification: the law authorizes the use of parts ” foreigners “But it stipulates that the assembly of the movement and the final tests must be carried out in Switzerland with the percentage indicated in relation to the components and, in particular, the movement.
Keep in mind that the fact that a watch is of Swiss origin does not mean that you benefit from the ” Swiss made “For this, you must meet all of the above criteria. If, for example, it is assembled in Switzerland but most of the parts that compose it were manufactured in another country (China), then you cannot claim the label.
A basic mechanical watch includes many different parts, but production in Switzerland can be very expensive, more than in other countries. So, although many watchmakers respect the 60% rule, many of them use parts of countries like China, whose costs are much lower, in their movements.